Fashion is in the midst of a transformation, and this time, it’s not about fleeting trends or seasonal must-haves. Sustainability, environmental consciousness, and ethical responsibility are now front and centre. The industry, long criticised for its environmental footprint, is finally taking meaningful steps to address its impact. According to the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), the fashion industry accounts for 8–10% of global carbon emissions. Additionally, the textile industry generates 20% of the world's wastewater and contributes significantly to plastic pollution, with microplastics from synthetic fibres contaminating oceans. With growing pressure from regulators, investors, and consumers, the urgency for sustainable practices has never been greater.
The expectation for fashion retailers is clear: sustainability must be embedded into their business strategies. Governments worldwide are introducing stricter environmental policies, such as the EU’s proposed regulations on textile waste and sustainability labelling. Consumers, more conscious than ever, are demanding accountability from the brands they support. Fashion weeks worldwide are also stepping up – Copenhagen Fashion Week has led the way with strict sustainability standards since 2020, requiring brands to meet environmental and social criteria to participate. Inspired by this, London Fashion Week introduced similar requirements in 2025, making it the first of the ‘Big Four’ (London, Milan, Paris, and New York) to enforce sustainability measures. The British Fashion Council (BFC) led this shift by introducing sustainability criteria for brands in its Newgen initiative, which supports emerging designers. This decisive step marks a significant shift in global industry expectations, driving brands towards responsible sourcing, waste reduction, and ethical production.
This raises important questions: What does this mean for international retailers? Who is leading the movement? And what will be expected of fashion brands going forward?
Sustainability is no longer a niche trend – it has become an industry-wide necessity. Many fashion houses and retailers are moving away from traditional fabrics, replacing them with recycled, organic, and biodegradable alternatives. Sustainable innovations like bio-fabricated leather, recycled ocean plastics, and plant-based dyes are reshaping fashion. Leading brands are driving this shift: Stella McCartney partnered with Bolt Threads on Mylo™, a mushroom-based leather; Gucci developed Demetra, a plant-based alternative used in its sneakers; and Hermès collaborated with MycoWorks on Sylvania, a fungi-based leather. Recycled polyester from ocean plastics is also gaining traction – Adidas, with Parley for the Oceans, transforms marine waste into apparel, while Patagonia incorporates recycled fishing nets and ocean plastics into its jackets, backpacks, and fleece products.
Sustainability in fashion isn’t just about production – it’s about consumption too. Recycling, resale, and rental services are gaining traction, reducing textile waste and extending the lifespan of garments. However, despite its benefits, the sustainable fashion movement faces challenges. High initial costs, limited access to sustainable materials, and a lack of widespread consumer awareness remain significant barriers. Overcoming these obstacles requires collective effort from brands, consumers, and policymakers. Educating consumers about the impact of their fashion choices is crucial, as many remain unaware of the social and environmental consequences of fast fashion. By spreading awareness and making sustainable choices more accessible, brands can empower consumers to make informed purchasing decisions.
However, despite these efforts, ultra-fast fashion giants Shein and Temu continue to thrive without ESG commitments, underscoring a major challenge for sustainable fashion. They dominate the fast-fashion market with their low-cost, high-turnover production model. Their success highlights a fundamental reality – while sustainability is growing in importance, cost remains the primary driver for most consumers. As long as affordability outweighs ethical concerns, sustainable fashion will face significant headwinds in reaching the mass market. For the fashion industry to truly transform, sustainability must become the default – accessible, affordable, and embedded into every stage of the value chain.